Taiwan Today

Jewelry artist Aka Chen melds Chinese painting aesthetics and precious materials in a departure from traditional bijouterie. 
 

Aka Chen (陳智權) marked a milestone in his creative career in 2020, when a work symbolizing the journey of life represented by magnolia flowers from bud to full bloom was purchased by U.K.-based Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A). The acquisition made him the first Taiwan jewelry artist whose creation was acquired by the leading museum. Titled Magnolia, the sculpture set is made of diamonds, spinels, titanium and wood and is part of Chen’s Zen series expressing harmony of nature and spirit. Each work is arranged in a display echoing aesthetics seen in Chinese landscape painting. The main components transform into wearable jewelry such as a brooch and pair of earrings when taken down from the mount. According to V&A, Chen’s piece combining sculpture, installation and jewelry is redefining jewelry design for the 21st century.

Chen initially worked in original design manufacturing selling and making jewelry for international companies, before setting up his own enterprise in 1989 to build his own brand. Along the way Chen picked up the commercial expertise that later allowed him to set out as an independent artist using some of the world’s most expensive materials. “Artistic creation brings me immense joy and fulfillment as an expression of my inner world. I’d like to transform jewelry into a creative business encompassing material expertise and innovative design,” he said. “Taiwan is famous for the success of its high technology sector and now needs to focus on cultural development to enhance the quality of life.”
 

Chen is adamant about fulfilling his strict requirements as an artisan, which demand focus, time and energy and are unlikely to generate immediate income, in striking contrast to mass production with its colossal output and fast profits. The artist aligns his standards with museums’ acquisition criteria and has been gradually working toward that goal. “I constantly challenge myself because hard work eventually pays dividends. I was thrilled when my sculpture entered V&A’s permanent collection,” he said. 

Simple Tenets

As a Buddhist, Chen’s style has been influenced by the Zen school’s emphasis on simplicity and the importance of the natural world. “Zen aesthetics focus on balance, harmony and freedom through a minimalist approach. The less is more concept, in fact,” he said. The artist likes to practice calligraphy, arrange flowers and perform tea ceremonies. These activities bring him peace of mind, improve his concentration, lend him patience and promote self-awareness, fostering a mindset conducive to the creative process. His main subject matter and source of inspiration is the ecosystem. “Nature is the best teacher; it manifests beauty, vitality and timelessness. It’s a lesson in how various species live in peaceful coexistence. My aim is to capture this,” he said. Among his favorite subjects are flowers, insects and birds, which appear light and vital yet are constructed from hard and nonmalleable materials. Chen believes jewelry symbolizes commitment, happiness, love and memories. “I expect my work to entrance clients not only because of its aesthetic quality but also due to the inherent meaning. Artists must master technique to imbue creation with vitality, and that’s where artistic value lies,” he said.
 

After working with a wide range of precious and semi-precious gemstones such as diamonds, emeralds and opals, in the 1990s Chen was delighted to discover the metal titanium, with its infinite potential for jewelry. Titanium is lightweight, hypoallergenic and nontoxic and thus particularly suitable for those with skin sensitivity. Its physical properties include corrosion resistance, flexibility and strength. Although its ability to withstand extreme temperatures, coupled with its low density and toughness, means that it is predominately used in aircraft, missiles, spacecraft and surgical tools, Chen evokes completely different imagery with the substance. Working with the material presents unique challenges as it is difficult to shape and cannot be soldered or reworked. One of titanium’s surprising characteristics is that it anodizes into a rainbow of colors, and the final tinge does not change or fade over time. It is also one of the most environmentally friendly metal finishing processes since the by-products contain no heavy metals or volatile gases. The artist dived deeply into exploring the anodizing process, from necessary tools to technique and temperatures, to generate an array of different colors and shades. “Unlike bright, sparkling gemstones, titanium radiates gentle, organic, warm colors and creates unexpected visual effects,” he said.

Material World

Although an artist, Chen is also very aware of the necessity to understand aspects of business that affect his art. For this reason he embarked on an Executive Master of Business Administration in 2009. Ko Chen-en (柯承恩), currently honorary professor at National Taiwan University’s College of Management in Taipei City, was Chen’s supervisor when he was undertaking his degree. The professor has since been a keen follower of Chen’s evolution as an artist while continuing to provide mentorship. “Business places emphasis on innovation, as does the arts community. Chen’s perseverance in becoming an independent artist is very impressive. He could have worked as a commercial jeweler, but he has chosen a more exacting path,” Ko said. He feels his former student has developed a sophisticated technique to represent subject matter in fresh and engaging ways. The frequent depiction of flowers and insects in his work reveals an acute power of observation and respect for nature. “Chen’s creations contain seasonal metaphors describing the experience and cycles of life, paying tribute to the natural world. When examined up close and from different angles, the minutiae demonstrate his skill,” Ko added.
 

The selection of materials and arrangement of visual elements set Chen apart from his contemporaries and predecessors, who have largely focused on fashioning gemstone decorations for celebrity clientele, royalty and the wealthy elite. Ko anticipates demand for Chen’s work by private collectors and museums to continue to grow in the future. “Chen takes a different approach by using titanium as the main material and gemstones as a complement. Instead of showy, glittery radiance, his work delivers an understated elegance,” the professor said. “His creation has all the essential components of an artwork, such as captivating visual language and symbolic meaning. It’s not merely attractive and culturally relevant but also thought-provoking.” Ko predicts Chen will keep evolving and believes the recognition his work earns on the world stage will raise visibility of Taiwan’s design prowess and imagination. 

Oriental Essence

According to Kao Yu-chen (高玉珍), former deputy director of Taipei-based National Museum of History, one’s first impression of Chen’s art is of a combination of fantasy and technique. “The elements—color, form, line, shape, space, texture and value—are well organized in  his work, creating layers, rhythm and a distinctly Eastern aesthetic,” she said. “Its clean lines and simplicity reduce everything to the essential and require a strong visual analysis, stemming from his study of conceptual art and minimalism.” Kao believes that the influence of traditional Chinese painter Chang Dai-chien (張大千) is evident in Chen’s use of color and shade, linear direction and choice of subject. “Chen has developed a new visual language by employing the classical style of Chinese ink painting to create a compelling composition in jewelry,” Kao said. “His work demonstrates originality while awaking a cultural resonance in the viewer.” She characterizes his artwork as a break from traditional jewelry that only adorns the body. 
 

Chen seeks to reinvent the industry and expand its appeal. “Jewelry is often considered a luxury and a status symbol, hidden away from public gaze and stored in safety deposit boxes,” he said. “I aspire to create intriguing pieces by experimenting with new forms and unconventional materials to be appreciated every day whether as clothing accessories or as art pieces.” 

Write to Kelly Her at kher@mofa.gov.tw